Tile Installation FAQ

Call us at (626) 602-3062, text the same number, or fill out the form on our contact page. We'll schedule a time to come to the space — most estimates require a site visit because substrate condition, access, and tile size all affect pricing. We don't quote flat rates over the phone for anything beyond simple backsplashes.

No. You can come to us with tile already purchased, or we can discuss material options during the estimate visit. If you've already bought tile, bring the spec sheet — we need to know the tile's PEI rating (hardness), water absorption rating, and whether it's rectified (machine-cut to precise dimensions) or calibrated, because those details affect which adhesive and grout joint size we use.

A standard rule is to add 10% to the measured square footage for waste, cuts, and future replacements. For diagonal layouts or herringbone patterns, bump that to 15%. For natural stone with significant variation (travertine, slate), 15% to 20% is safer. Always order from the same production lot — tiles from different lots can have visible color variation even within the same SKU.

Both are fired clay, but porcelain is fired at higher temperatures and has a water absorption rate below 0.5%, making it denser and more durable. Ceramic absorbs more water and is softer, which makes it easier to cut but less appropriate for wet floors or exterior use. For most floors in Long Beach — including bathroom floors and outdoor patios — porcelain is the practical choice. Ceramic works well for wall tile and backsplashes where foot traffic and moisture exposure are lower.

Cement-based grout (the most common type) is porous and should be sealed after it has cured — typically 72 hours after application. Penetrating sealers soak into the grout rather than sitting on top, which gives longer-lasting protection. Epoxy grout is non-porous and does not require sealing, but it's harder to work with and typically reserved for commercial kitchens or very wet residential applications. We apply an initial sealer on all cement grout as part of our standard process.

Rectified tiles (machine-cut to exact dimensions) can be laid with joints as narrow as 1/16 inch. Non-rectified tiles have slight size variation and need at least 1/8 inch to absorb those differences without lippage (one tile edge higher than its neighbor). Large-format tiles on floors generally look cleanest with 1/8 to 3/16 inch joints. Mosaic tile on shower floors typically gets 1/8 inch joints, which also improves slip resistance by increasing grout surface area.

A standard shower tile installation — walls and floor, including waterproofing membrane and a built-in niche — typically takes two to three working days. A full bathroom (shower, floor, and partial wall tile) runs three to five days. These timelines include the cure time between the waterproofing membrane and tile installation. Large-format tile or complex patterns add time. We give a realistic timeline at the estimate visit, not a minimum that grows once the job starts.

No. Thinset mortar needs at least 24 hours to cure before grouting, and grout needs another 24 to 72 hours before water exposure. For shower floors with mosaic tile, we recommend a full 72-hour wait before use. Running water on uncured grout washes out the cement binders and results in crumbling joints within months. We'll give you the specific wait time for your project based on the products used and ambient temperature.

The most common causes are hollow spots (insufficient thinset coverage under the tile), movement in the substrate, and missing expansion joints. In Southern California, thermal expansion is a real factor — tile installed without movement joints at transitions and perimeters will eventually crack as the substrate moves with temperature changes. We address all of these during installation: full thinset coverage, uncoupling membrane where deflection is a concern, and proper movement joints at walls and transitions.